Komarom/Kormarno – Esztergom

Today was a day for the unexpected. We left Komarno Slovakia somewhat eager to get back to the countryside. Komarno was not too exciting and somewhat depressing. Thus we were eager to get back out on the cycle path. The route out of town reminded us of what life under to boot of communism might look like. Since our route went along the river and a rail yard, there looked to be the remnants of a border wall. Concrete wall topped with barb wire and perhaps guard towers. Today they seem to provide lights over the rail yard, but they certainly look built for another purpose.

Soon we were out of the city and along the river with a smooth path and wide open spaces. When you look around you can see older eastern block buildings. Built with utilitarianism in mind and nothing for ascetics. In contrast you will also come along a newer home that looks plucked right out of Germany or Austria in between primitive homes from the early 1900’s. The contrast is real and unexpected. We came across one such situation today – the newer construction home, green grasss, pool and kid toys with the dad sitting on the patio working on a laptop, sandwiched between older primitive homes with dirt yards etc.

The path took us by an old Roman fort. Not much to look at but the remnants of a walls. Yet the history is real and unexpected to be at a place that could be over 2000 years old.

We enjoyed the wide open spaces and cooler weather. We were fortunate to also have a tail wind that made the cycling rather easy.

We occasionally were routed onto some road sections which sometimes have a shoulder or cycle lane and sometimes not. I’m not sure why, but the times there are no cycle lanes also seem to be busy roads with speeding trucks. Thankfully those sections were brief and quickly forgotten once you are back on a well groomed and smooth cycle path.

The route steered us through a small town where we came across a church that appeared to be open, but was not. We have come across several like this where the outer doors are open allowing you in the vestibule, only to find the inner doors locked. You can sometimes peer in via a window, but more often than not the window also has a metal screen making pictures impractical.

As we neared the end of today’s route, we entered Sturvo Slovakia and passed through a former government housing project. Socialist-era pre-fab multi-story apartment complexes. Following the fall of communism in 1989 they were sold off to the tenants and serve as private homes, or in some cases short-term rentals for the nearby thermal bath resort.

We crossed over the bridge between Sturvo and Esztergom which was destroyed during WWII and was not rebuilt until 2001. As we crossed the bridge we took in the view of the Esztergom Basilica, the largest in Hungary. We soon found our hotel and were delighted that it was near the Basilica.

We spent the afternoon walking around the Basilica and the fort that is next door. The Basilica is breath taking and we enjoyed the opportunity to sit and marvel at the exquisite interior. Afterwards, we wandered to the other side of the Basilica and found a great lookout point with a monument. The monument commemorates the crowning of Stephen I (Szent István) in the year 1000/1001, the event that founded Hungary as a Christian kingdom. The monument depicts Archbishop Domonkos placing the Holy Crown onto the kneeling king.  The view over the Danube river, Slovakia on the other side and Hungary to the south are amazing.

Concluding our day, we had lunch/dinner at the restaurant Primas Pince which is located in the cellars of the Basilica grounds.

Today was a day for the unexpected. We expected to see some depressing socialist-era buildings and cities, yet we also saw the unexpected of the Basilica and the hill top views of the two neighboring countries.

Be sure to watch the video, it has some great highlights of the day.

Tomorrow we are expecting 100% chance of rain and over 1 inch of precipitation. The journey tomorrow was to be 64 km and a train ride into Budapest. We will decide in the morning, but we may just be taking the train from Esztergom straight to Budapest vs another wet ride like we did at the beginning of the journey.